At this arty restaurant (The Green Room) in the Deep Ellum area of Dallas, improvisation is the order of the day. “You get the best things off the top of your head,” says sous chef Suzan Fries. That’s how she came up with this delicious dish, which executive chef Marc Cassel was only too happy to put on the menu. Although the combination of lightly cooked shellfish in a Japanese miso-paste glaze and nutty, sepia-toned Wehani rice strikes an Asian note, the accompanying butter-cream sauce—chunky with leeks and garlic and snappy oriental five-spice powder—is a hybrid that refuses to be classified. When flavors mingle so beautifully, though, categories don’t count. The Green Room, 2715 Elm Street, Dallas. Phone: (214) 748-7666

Try this recipe for Miso-Glazed Shrimp from the Green Room, Dallas.