Chef

Recipes |
December 1, 1994

State Fare

Forget the figgy pudding. The centerpiece of your party table for the holidays should be this voluptuous cheesecake from Houston’s Sierra Grill. Chef Charles Watkins has taken an everyday dessert and turned it into something special, its texture as lush as velvet, the density firm without being heavy. But what

Food & Drink |
May 31, 1993

Little Boats de la Noche

For millennia, Mexican people have used corn husks as cooking vessels. Alan Mallett, the executive chef at Houston’s Cafe Noche, has adapted the technique for the restaurant’s signature Little Boats because, he says, the ingredients “steam in their own juices and retain all their flavor and texture.” Three variations on

Food & Drink |
April 30, 1992

State Fare

“I’m not crazy about chiles,” says chef Gerard Bahon, in a formidable French accent that has successfully resisted Americanization for more than twenty years. So at his Arlington restaurant, Bistro Bagatelle (406 W. Abrams), the native of Brittany eschews the potent ingredients of Texas’ Southwestern cuisine in favor of the