Foreign & Domestic, Food & Drink

Austin Austin transplants by way of New York and Portland, chef-owners Ned and Jodi Elliott are behind Foreign & Domestic’s smart, playful menu. We noshed on Ned’s warm black olive and Gruyère popovers (pictured) while sipping Session lager spiffed up with preserved-lemon syrup and ginger beer. Salads are big enough to share; the Bibb lettuce with a soft egg was pumped up with avocado, herbs, boquerones (Spanish anchovies), and crunchy rye croutons. And entrées capitalize on the best regional produce. Dewberry Hills Farms chicken never tasted so moist and tender, paired with crisp cracklings, pole beans, and sweet corn pudding. Jodi’s lime tart, crowned with toasted coconut ice cream, was nothing short of sublime, as you would expect from an alum of Gramercy Tavern and Per Se. Beer & wine. 306 E. 53rd (512-459-1010). Dinner Tue–Sat 5–close. Closed Sun & Mon. $$–$$$ W+

Shockley Market

Corpus Christi Culinary Institute of America grad Doan Shockley has revived the vacant space of the late, lamented Cafe Aeby. The decor is spare and modern, the service knowledgeable and cordial, and the menu ambitious. For openers we had a first-class gazpacho, chock-full of fresh vegetables, and a savory tart with tomato, onion, and goat cheese. Entrées included “Julia Child’s Boeuf Bourguignon,” which was indeed worthy of the culinary icon; a fine broiled cedar-planked salmon filet; and exceptional thick-sliced pork tenderloin. Shockley and team took equal care with the sides, delivering firm-but-tender asparagus and airy lemon mashed potatoes. The final punctuation to the meal was an exclamation point: bread pudding we plan to order again and again. Beer & wine. The Village, 3815 S. Alameda (361-851-2525). Open Mon–Thur 11–9, Fri & Sat 11–10. Closed Sun. $ W+