All cowboy boots, whether made by hand or by a big manufacturer, whether constructed of calf or cordovan or ostrich, are only as good as the sum of their parts and the process by which they come together. The artisans at Little’s Boot Company, in San Antonio, have been practicing the exacting craft since 1915. There, in a small South Side shop and showroom, the fourth- and fifth-generation Little family bootmakers, along with a small cadre of skilled workers, painstakingly measure, cut, last, stretch, stitch, sole, and, finally, finish cowboy boots. We dropped in for a tutorial.

The Upper

After the size and overall style of the boot has been determined and the leather has been chosen and cut from a pattern, this portion of the boot, also known as the shaft, is decorated with inlays and overlays and ornamental stitching. The upper typically features the boot’s pulls, sometimes called ears, and a scallop, which is the V-shaped dip at the front and back of the shaft. Most often, this part of the boot starts in two pieces, a front and a back, that are joined at the sides at a seam that might feature subtly decorative piping.

The Lower

The portion of the boot that covers the foot consists of three parts. The rear, known as the counter, is reinforced inside with extra-stiff material (typically leather), which serves to stabilize the foot. The vamp is the lower front end of the boot. It is stretched over a last, a foot-shaped form (historically wooden, now usually plastic) around which the lower boot comes together. The lasts for custom boots precisely mimic a client’s foot, whereas the lasts used for mass-produced boots are standard shoe sizes. The vamp might feature a toe wrinkle, a small series of stitched lines across the top of the foot, as well as a toe bug, a small stitched decoration near the front. A layer of thicker leather inside the front tip of the vamp forms a sturdy toe box. Finally, the insole is attached to the bottom of the last, and the counter and vamp are pulled over it and tacked into place.

The Bottom

Between the insole and the earth is the welt, a thin layer of leather that connects the lower to the sole. (To cut costs, some manufacturers use plastic welts.) A shank, most often steel, is attached to the welt to create a bridge along the arch of the foot. Then a heavy-duty leather outsole is glued and stitched to the welt, and a rubber-capped heel, made of stacked leather, is glued together and nailed on.

The Finish

The last is removed, excess bits of leather and thread are trimmed, final dyes are applied, and the boots are polished and buffed.

leather
An assortment of leather in a veritable rainbow of colors waits to be crafted into custom boots.
Photograph by Jeff Wilson
A pattern for decorative stitching is painstakingly worked into what will be a boot’s shaft.
A pattern for decorative stitching is painstakingly worked into what will be a boot’s shaft.
Photograph by Jeff Wilson
Ortiz works on the fine stitching required for a boot’s ornamental inlays.
Ortiz works on the fine stitching required for a boot’s ornamental inlays.
Photograph by Jeff Wilson
Assorted lasts, foot-shaped forms (historically wooden, now usually plastic), around which the boot’s lower portion comes together.
Assorted lasts, foot-shaped forms (historically wooden, now usually plastic), around which the boot’s lower portion comes together.
Photograph by Jeff Wilson
The last room, where the customized forms belonging to hundreds of individual Little’s customers are stored for future use.
The last room, where the customized forms belonging to hundreds of individual Little’s customers are stored for future use.
Photograph by Jeff Wilson
measuring
A number of detailed measurements ensure a well-fitting custom boot. Here a customer’s instep is measured.
Photograph by Jeff Wilson
tacks
The boot’s vamp and counter, which at this point have been lined and stitched together, are pulled over the insole and tacked into place.
Photograph by Jeff Wilson
Lemonwood pegs, which, unlike nails, expand over time and do not rust, are used to attach the outsole to the boot before the heel is put on.
Lemonwood pegs, which, unlike nails, expand over time and do not rust, are used to attach the outsole to the boot before the heel is put on.
Photograph by Jeff Wilson
Weathered boxes containing lasts belonging to some of Little’s oldest customers.
Weathered boxes containing lasts belonging to some of Little’s oldest customers.
Photograph by Jeff Wilson
Rafael Moreno, who has crafted boots at Little’s for 12 years, stitches a heavy-duty leather sole into place with an ancient industrial sewing machine designed just for this purpose.
Rafael Moreno, who has crafted boots at Little’s for 12 years, stitches a heavy-duty leather sole into place with an ancient industrial sewing machine designed just for this purpose.
Photograph by Jeff Wilson
Final dyes are applied to the boot’s heel and sole by Jose Leon Sosa, a native of Cuba who has worked at Little’s since 2013.
Final dyes are applied to the boot’s heel and sole by Jose Leon Sosa, a native of Cuba who has worked at Little’s since 2013.
Photograph by Jeff Wilson
A well-worn work bench with sundry tools of the bootmaking trade.
A well-worn work bench with sundry tools of the bootmaking trade.
Photograph by Jeff Wilson