Texas Monthly adds and updates approximately sixty restaurant listings to our Dining Guide each month. There’s limited space in the print issue, but the entire searchable guide to the best of Texas cuisine is at your fingertips online!
Below are a few highlights from the new restaurants reviewed in our February 2022 issue. Click “More Info” for further detail on each restaurant:
Roy Pope Grocery
One of Fort Worth’s most eagerly awaited restaurants of 2021 was actually a reboot of the venerable Roy Pope Grocery. The longtime owners sold in 2020 to a team, led by chef Lou Lambert, who modernized the grocery shelves and added a patio, a coffee/wine bar, and an extensive prepared food menu. Neighborhood regulars pop by for standouts like the chicken carbón, smoky and tender with perfectly charred skin, and meat loaf with mashed potatoes and tender-crisp broccolini. And, yes, the burger is back, and probably even better than you remember it: a juicy seared patty on a buttered and griddled bun with house-made pickles and mayo.
American | ⭑⭑ | $$ | More Info
Honey Moon Spirit Lounge
Eclectic and bohemian best describe this French bistro–inspired spot housed in an old bungalow. At a table in one of the intimate rooms tucked away at the back of the house, we enjoyed fresh oysters with an herbaceous tarragon mignonette as well as a bowl of savory crab fried rice tossed with XO sauce. The Texas Wagyu burger was juicy and satisfying, with a generous layer of melted American cheese and spicy Dijon mustard and a side of crispy duck fat fries. The duck fat theme carried over to an order of crispy fried Seoul Hot Chicken adorned with chile oil and kimchi powder. Cocktails, both classic and creative, are generous and well executed.
Modern American | ⭑⭑⭑ | $$ | More Info
At the gorgeously remodeled Hotel Paso del Norte, there’s a story in every corner and the ultimate steakhouse on the seventeenth floor. Our evening began with cioppino, mussels and clams in an herby tomato broth, which we accompanied with a Oaxaca old-fashioned made with smoky mezcal. Prime beef carpaccio with pickled fennel set the tone for the entrée to come, the highlight of which was a six-ounce A5 Miyazaki Wagyu strip loin well worth the $140 price tag for those who collect unforgettable dining experiences. Indulgent sides included shepherd’s pie and truffle mac and cheese. For dessert, you should go directly to the Panna Cotta Creamsicle.
Steaks | ⭑⭑⭑ | $$$$ | More Info
The place may call itself a cocktail lounge, but its inventive dim sum puts it on the dining map too. Vibrant floral murals, chandeliers decked out in cherry blossoms, and a neon-lit bar lend a sassy vibe that echoes the whimsically styled drinks. The dim sum steals the show, though. Fried Chili Wontons merge satisfying crunch with complex flavors of minced pork and Tianjin preserve (pickled cabbage). On the crudo menu, hearty beef tataki—seared to create a delectable charred crust—takes rare New York strip steak and adds a fiery rub and a drizzle of chile oil. Pork-and-shrimp wontons are a delicious Thai-Chinese fusion: silky wonton skins with a savory filling and velvety-smooth chile-peanut sauce.
Asian | ⭑⭑⭑ | $$$ | More Info
In the Thompson Hotel, Landrace targets upscale conventioneers and locals with a changing menu from executive chef Steve McHugh, of Cured. While imagination abounds, execution can be uneven. Beautifully bronzed scallops came with a lovely risotto-like orzo-and-corn mixture tied in a corn husk like a gift-wrapped tamal. But oysters (with buttery parsley toast) arrived overcooked in a too-strong New Orleans–style barbecue sauce. Overall, though, the seafood and fancy Wagyu steaks are perfect for a special occasion. A raclette—the traditional Swiss melted-cheese dish—was served table-side over grits as an accompaniment to bison short ribs (which tasted much like a very good pot roast—but cost $65).
Modern American | ⭑⭑ | $$$$ | More Info
Our reviews are written by critics who live in the cities and regions they cover. They remain anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. The magazine pays for all meals and accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Comments? Write us.