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Food & Drink|
May 31, 2000

The Meating

Three friends, seven years, untold pounds of barbecue pork chops and prime rib, and a single tradition that elevates the experience above mere food.

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Food & Drink|
April 1, 2000

Hot Sauce

How the Stubb's barbecue empire outlasted the death of its namesake—and proved that spice guys sometimes finish first.

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Food & Drink|
November 1, 1999

Joy of Mex: Dallas

CUQUITA’S2326 N. Henderson, 214-823-1859; cash only. Pozole (hominy stew) and lengua (tongue) make the menu more Mex-Mex, but there’s plenty of Tex-Mex at this fine place. The homemade lemonade is a nice little appetizer all by itself, and you’ll still feel like ordering simple and flavorful burritos (bean, chicken, and

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Food & Drink|
November 1, 1999

Joy of Mex: Austin

CHANGO’S TAQUERIA3023 Guadalupe, 512-480-8226. This bright little taquería near the university is great for a quickie (meal). The menu is minuscule, with mostly tacos and burritos, and you stand in line to order, but the corn tortillas are handmade right on the spot—a mesmerizing operation—and the food is not

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Food & Drink|
November 1, 1999

The Joy of Mex: Recipes

The Big EnchiladaEnchiladas Zacatecanas from Las Manitas, AustinQuick: define “enchilada.” Most people would say it’s a rolled or folded tortilla filled with something savory, topped with a sauce, and blanketed in melted cheese. And that would certainly be one correct definition. But if you go by the etymology of the

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Food & Drink|
November 1, 1999

Joy of Mex: San Antonio

Aldaco’s100 Hoefgen, Sunset Station; from downtown, go east on Market Street under I-37, north on the service road, right on Commerce, and right on Hoefgen; 210-222-0561. Last year twelve tables, this year fifty: Tiny Aldaco’s has moved into a cavernous but spiffily remodeled railroad terminal practically next door to the

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Food & Drink|
November 1, 1999

Joy of Mex: Reynosa, Mexico

La FogataCalle Matamoros Ote. 750, 011-52-89-22-47-72. A great place to cool your heels after tramping around Reynosa. The white walls, dark carved-wood bar, and arched stone window frames exude serenity. Cabrito (order the shoulder cut) is tender; the butterflied beef filet (medium-well-done unless you specify otherwise) comes in a

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Food & Drink|
November 1, 1999

Joy of Mex: Nuevo Laredo, Mexico

EL DORADOBelden at Ocampo, 011-52-87-12-00-15. The point of visiting the former, original Cadillac Bar is not to eat, though you can certainly do that here. The point is, and always has been, to have an ethereal Ramos Gin Fizz, laugh and carry on, see somebody you haven’t seen in ten

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Food & Drink|
November 1, 1999

Joy of Mex: McAllen

MARIA BONITA1612 N. Eleventh, 956-687-7181. Carved lava-stone columns add a touch of Mexican character to an otherwise unremarkable space, and the food is more authentic than is the norm hereabouts. Grilled items, a specialty, are served on tabletop braziers to keep them hot (ask for a platter so they won’t

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Food & Drink|
November 1, 1999

Joy of Mex: Matamoros, Mexico

BIGO’S PARRILLAAvenida Alvaro Obregón 48 at Azucenas, 011-52-88-16-25-29, and one other location; personal checks accepted, no credit cards.“Todo al carbón” (“Everything’s grilled”) at this little brick-fronted cafe on a major tourist strip. Families and dates chow down on good, smoky fajita meat in the world’s smallest corn tortillas. On the

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Food & Drink|
November 1, 1999

Joy of Mex: Laredo

COTULLA STYLE PIT B.B.Q.4502 McPherson, 956-724-5747. You can get decent, not-too-Americanized Mexican food at busy, barnlike Cotulla, which is famous for its barbecue and its huge variety of mariachis (borderspeak for “soft tacos”). Guacamole: 4.5 (avocado and fixings). Chips: 3. Salsa: 1 (totally bland). EL TACO TOTE5603 San Dario, which

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Food & Drink|
November 1, 1999

Joy of Mex: Ciudad Juarez, Mexico

CASA DEL SOLAvenida Lincoln at Calle Ignacio Mejía, 011-52-16-13-65-09 or 16-00-88. Casa del Sol makes the most original chile relleno in Juárez—a beautifully simple ancho (a dried, ripe poblano that’s been plumped up) filled with sour cream and ricottalike panela cheese. It tastes like a sun-dried tomato, but better. Almost

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Food & Drink|
November 1, 1999

Joy of Mex: Houston

BLUE AGAVE1340 West Gray, 713-520-9696. Order pollo gordo (“fat chicken”) and you’ll be gordo by the time you finish the generous breast stuffed with spinach and pepper cheese in chipotle cream. Your wallet, however, will be thin: Most entrée prices are in the teens. This trendy, exuberantly tacky spot does

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Food & Drink|
November 1, 1999

Joy of Mex: Galveston

THE ORIGINALMEXICAN CAFE1401 Market, 409-762-6001. With its bright, bouncy colors, paper flowers, and pots of bougainvillea on the patio, the Original could have been created by central casting. Depending on what you order, you’ll finish with a smile or a grimace. The fajitas Jalisco, so tantalizingly described on the menu,

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Food & Drink|
November 1, 1999

Joy of Mex: Fort Worth

BENITO’S1450 W. Magnolia Avenue, 817-332-8633. What a find! You’ll think you’ve died and gone to Mexico when you walk into this little old-fashioned place. Sopes—thick corn-cake tarts—come smeared with refried beans, grated cheese, and (unfortunately) tasteless green-chile sauce. A gigantic Oaxaca-style chicken-and-mole tamal wrapped in a banana leaf would feed

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Business|
April 30, 1999

Whole Sales

As the nation’s largest chain of natural and organic foods supermarkets, Austin-based Whole Foods Market is where the trendy buy such necessities as tea tree oil toothpaste. But now patrons no longer have to shop in person to make a statement. In late March WholeFoods.com opened for business, offering some

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deep fry turkey
Recipes|
November 1, 1998

Texas Deep-fried Turkey

Equipment1 turkey cooker with a propane burner (also called a catfish cooker or crawfish boiler) 1 36- to 40-quart stockpot and basket 1 large turkey injector with needle 1 deep-fryer thermometer or candy thermometer elbow-length oven mittsCinnamon-Chile Rub1/2 cup cinnamon 1/2 cup pasilla or other red chile powder 1/2 cup

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Recipes|
November 1, 1998

Cowboy Coffee With Kahlua Cream

1 pot hot coffee1 1/4 cups heavy cream2 tablespoons powdered sugar2 tablespoons Kahlua liqueur8 teaspoons shaved chocolateMake a pot of good strong coffee. In a bowl whip the cream until soft peaks form. Fold in the powdered sugar and Kahlua. Put a dollop on each cup of coffee and garnish

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Food & Drink|
April 1, 1998

Cheryl Clark

Growing up in Harlingen, Cheryl Clark cooked for family friends, but only for fun. Then, at fifteen, she lied about her age to get a real job in a restaurant, and ever since, like a soufflé with extra egg whites, her star has risen to extraordinary heights. After attending New

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Food & Drink|
July 31, 1997

Sea You Really Soon

Superchef Stephan Pyles, the culinary hand behind Dallas’ Star Canyon, is opening a new restaurant this fall: AquaKnox. The name refers to the street on which the restaurant is located, Knox, and the menu’s featured ingredient, which comes from the water. “It’s a fish restaurant,” he says simply. Pyles plans

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Food|
June 30, 1997

Food for Thought

Once, before fast-food franchises and ecotourists took over Alpine, the Gallego family’s Mexican restaurant survived and thrived. Today, the kitchen is closed.

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Business|
February 1, 1997

New Deli

It started as a hippie sandwich shop in Austin. Now, more than two decades later, Schlotzsky’s is finally kicking the competition in the buns.

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Recipes|
August 31, 1996

Rosemary Mashed Potatoes

4 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary 13/4 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup warm milk 2 ounces Parmesan cheese, freshly grated (yields 1/2 cup) salt to taste freshly ground pepper to tasteMelt butter in a small saucepan. Add rosemary

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Recipes|
July 31, 1996

Red Bell Pepper Crostini

olive oil for brushing on peppers 2 red bell peppers 1 teaspoon fresh chopped thyme 2 tablespoons pure olive oil salt and pepper to taste 8 slices French bread, 1/2 inch thick 1 clove garlic, peeled 6 sprigs fresh thymeBrush olive oil on peppers and place on a sheet pan

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Food & Drink|
July 31, 1996

Grady Spears

“I feel like I’ve been put through a blender!” says Grady Spears, the executive chef and co-owner of Reata restaurant, whose maniacally successful second location opened in May atop Fort Worth’s Bank One Tower. “On Saturdays we’re serving nearly six hundred customers. It’s just nuts.” Spears may be grousing, but

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Recipes|
June 30, 1996

Penne al Forno and Mixed Greens

Pine Nut—Balsamic Vinaigrette1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoon toasted pine nuts, crushed (or more, to taste) 1 teaspoon chopped cilantro 1 clove garlic, minced (or more, to taste) salt and pepper to tastePlace all ingredients in a bowl and whisk thoroughly.Mixed Greens1/2 pound mixed greens

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Food & Drink|
June 30, 1996

Bread Winners

Upper-crust bakers in Dallas, Houston, San Antonio, and Austin are turning out heavenly handmade loaves that make store-bought seem stale by comparison.

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Food & Drink|
May 31, 1996

He Takes the Cake

Wally Mejía designed his first wedding cake for a friend in 1989. It was a five-tiered butter-pecan-creme-filled extravaganza adorned with intricate scrollwork that imitated the architectural treatments he’d admired in France the year before, when he took a pastrymaking course at the Cordon Bleu. “The guests surrounded it and took

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