Food & Drink

Find Texas food and drink news and reviews on restaurants, recipes, fine dining and more
Recipes|
February 1, 1996

Jalapeño Smoked Shrimp

24 large Gulf shrimp 3 fresh jalapeños, finely chopped 1⁄4 cup finely chopped pickled jalapeños 1⁄4 cup juice from pickled jalapeños 3 shallots, finely chopped 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh epazote 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice 2 tablespoons unrefined

Recipes|
February 1, 1996

Wild Mushroom Enchiladas

5 ancho chiles 1 cup heavy cream 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 teaspoons fresh lime juice 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1/2 yellow onion, diced 6 ounces wild mushrooms (morels, shiitakes, oysters, portobellos), sliced 1/2 avocado, peeled, pitted, and cut into quarter-inch cubes 3 ounces queso fresco or feta cheese, crumbled

Recipes|
January 1, 1996

Ranch Potato Wedges

6 baking potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced 1/4 cup minced garlic 1/4 cup minced shallots 1 1/2 sticks butter 1 1/2 cups heavy cream 3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese salt and pepper to tastePreheat oven to 350 degrees. In a heavy saucepan, sauté garlic and shallots in butter over low

Recipes|
January 1, 1996

Ancho-Bourbon Sauce

4 ancho chiles 1 cup sugar 1/2 teaspoon minced garlic 2 1/2 cups demi-glace 1/4 cup Jim Beam bourbon salt and pepper to tasteCore and seed chiles. Cover in boiling water and simmer for approximately 10 minutes, or until soft. Purée in a blender with enough water to make a

Food & Drink|
January 1, 1996

Lay’s of Our Lives

BESIDES THE TASTE OF ITS CHIPS, Frito-Lay’s advertising has had a lasting impact on Americans. Grown-ups can still sing all the words to “Ai-yi-yi-yi, I’m the Frito Bandito” and “Munch a Bunch of Fritos.” Only time will tell if the supermodels’ plug for Baked Lay’s will join the ranks of

Food & Drink|
January 1, 1996

Virtual Vittles

From chili to chiles, there’s a heaping helping of Texas food on the Internet, including cookoff schedules, mail-order info, recipes, and restaurant reviews. Dig in.

Business|
January 1, 1996

Hot Potatoes

Is it possible to have a low-fat chip that tastes good? After three years of top-secret tinkering, Frito-Lay thinks it has hit upon the ultimate snacker’s delight.

Recipes|
December 1, 1995

State Fare: Cinnamon Croissant Bread Pudding

In theory and in practice, bread pudding is what you do with leftover bread—it’s poor folks’ food. But not this bread pudding. The dauntingly rich and absolutely delicious dessert is the specialty of pastry chef Melissa Bailey, who with her husband, executive chef Benjamin Bailey, heads up the kitchen at Houston’s arty

Libations|
November 1, 1995

Crazy for Brew

With 31 new brewpubs across the state, deciding which bar to belly up to has never been more difficult—or fun. Our guide to the craft-beer craze.

Recipes|
June 30, 1995

The Bush Family’s Zuni Stew

1 1/4 cups pinto beans, soaked overnight and drained 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons corn or vegetable oil 2 yellow onions, cut in 1/4-inch pieces 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 tablespoons red chile powder, or more, to taste 1 teaspoon ground cumin

Libations|
June 30, 1995

Governor’s Mansion Summer Peach Tea Punch

6 cups water 3 family-size (1 ounce) tea bags 2 cups fresh mint, loosely packed 1 small can (6 ounces) frozen lemonade concentrate 1 bottle (32 ounces) R.W. Knudsen Peach Nectar (it has the most flavor) 1/2 to 1 cup simple syrup 1 liter ginger ale 1 liter club sodaBring

Recipes|
April 30, 1995

State Fare: Vegetable Stack

Vegetables of every shape, color, and texture are mixed and matched in chef Monica Pope’s innovative and healthy dish. A light but filling option from the menu at Boulevard Bistrot in Houston (4319 Montrose), the multilayered assemblage consists of a pancake of grated and sliced vegetables on the bottom and

Recipes|
June 30, 1994

Shallot-Mustard Vinaigrette

1/2 cup champagne vinegar 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 1/2 cups pure olive oil 2 tablespoons finely chopped shallots Salt and pepper to tasteMix vinegar and mustard in a stainless steel bowl. Add olive oil in a steady stream, beating with wire whisk until

Recipes|
June 30, 1994

Hummus-Tahini Spread

1 15- or 16-ounce can garbanzos (chick peas) 2 tablespoons tahini (sesame paste) 1 tablespoon pure olive oil 1 teaspoon fresh pressed garlic or prepared garlic paste 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice Salt and pepper to tasteDrain garbanzos, reserving liquid. Blend first 5 ingredients in food processor or blender, adding

Recipes|
June 30, 1994

State Fare: Grilled Vegetable Sandwich

This creation mixes and matches ingredients from the countries of the Mediterranean: grilled portobello mushrooms from Italy, olive oil from France or Spain, hummus-tahini spread from the Middle East.“This sandwich was my wife’s idea,” says David Holben, the executive chef at Dallas’ Mediterraneo. “She’s a vegetarian and she asked me

Recipes|
April 1, 1994

Edible Flowers

1/2 cup fresh soft goat cheese 24 edible flowers (preferably trumpet-shaped)Whip goat cheese in blender until smooth; pipe or spoon into flowers.To serve, arrange slices of stuffed lamb on plate atop tomatillo sauce. Decorate lamb with remaining pepper strips and garnish plate with flowers. Serves 6.

Recipes|
April 1, 1994

Tomatillo-Mint Sauce

1 pound fresh tomatillos, quartered 1 jalapeño, seeded and chopped 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh garlic 3 tablespoons clarified butter 1 cup sherry 1/4 cup soy sauce 1/4 cup brown sugar 1/2 cup chopped destemmed fresh mint 1 teaspoon ground black pepperSauté tomatillos, jalapeño, and garlic in clarified butter until

Recipes|
March 1, 1994

State Fare: Roast Duck and Creamy Polenta

The ingredients are earthy but the effect is divine in chef Mark Morrow’s rustic anitra arrosto, or roast duck. Morrow’s recipes from Mi Piaci in Dallas (14854 Montfort) do a turn on traditional Italian fare: fresh fowl brushed with honey and balsamic vinegar and slow-cooked creamy polenta, made from simple cornmeal.The

Recipes|
August 31, 1993

State Fare: Pasta Primavera

Think casual entertaining, and you think “grill.” This dish, from the New Southwestern bistro Third Coast Rotisserie and Grill in Houston, propels tradition up a notch.The shrimp and scallop skewers, a creation of executive chef Gary Tottis, take one of Texas’ great natural resources—seafood—and give it a distinctive Mexican accent—the

Recipes|
May 31, 1993

State Fare: Little Boats de la Noche

For millennia, Mexican people have used corn husks as cooking vessels. Alan Mallett, the executive chef at Houston’s Cafe Noche, has adapted the technique for the restaurant’s signature Little Boats because, he says, the ingredients “steam in their own juices and retain all their flavor and texture.” Three variations on

Recipes|
May 1, 1993

State Fare: Black-Bottom Pecan Pie

Dallas chef Stephan Pyles redefined Texas cuisine in the eighties, giving a sophisticated treatment to down-home staples and adding the distinctive kick of chiles and Mexican spices. The founder of the dear departed Routh Street Cafe and its more casual offspring, Baby Routh (2708 Routh Street), Pyles shares his pioneering

Recipes|
September 30, 1992

State Fare: Quesadillas and Hashbrowns

In Texas, October is the kindest month, bringing idle breezes and the promise of nippy mornings followed by glorious blue afternoons. In weather like this, you want to have friends over for Sunday brunch, but you don’t want to kill yourself cooking. That’s when you need recipes that get you

Recipes|
May 31, 1992

State Fare: Acorn Squash Soup with Roquefort Toast

Some restaurants are so intertwined with the identity of a city that the place is unthinkable without them. London minus the Sherlock Holmes pub? Inconceivable. Paris sans La Tour d’Argent? C’est impossible. Houston without the Rivoli? No way. For seventeen years, the Rivoli (at 5636 Richmond), with its latticed garden

Recipes|
April 30, 1992

State Fare: Apple Tart With Cinnamon Ice Cream

“I’m not crazy about chiles,” says chef Gerard Bahon, in a formidable French accent that has successfully resisted Americanization for more than twenty years. So at his Arlington restaurant, Bistro Bagatelle (406 W. Abrams), the native of Brittany eschews the potent ingredients of Texas’ Southwestern cuisine in favor of the

Food & Drink|
April 1, 1992

Liquor Licker

Larry Peterman is a revisionist where suckers are concerned. His new tequila lollipop con gusano (complete with the worm) is his take on making hard liquor palatable: “We tried using mescal,” he says, “but it tasted so bad—kind of like burned dirt with rubbing alcohol—that nobody would eat it.”

Books|
April 1, 1992

Having a Cow

Beyond Beef blames cattle for the decline of civilization—not to mention famine, pestilence, destruction, and death.

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