Central
“Blood makes you related, but barbecue makes you family,” said the camo-clad guy to a young boy across from him at our long communal table. It was three o’clock on a Saturday, but the bare-bones place was humming like Grand Central Station, nearly every table populated by smoked-meat devotees from…
Raw squid and smoked fish collar are just a couple of the dishes offered by the guys behind Ramen Tatsu-Ya.
Glazed, sauced, or candy-coated seems to be the new direction for pork ribs in Texas, but here they’re a masterwork in simplicity.
