El Come Taco
Taco de Jose
If the trompo is fired up at El Come Taco, get a few tacos al pastor. You’d be depriving yourself of East Dallas greatness otherwise. The same goes for the fish taco and taco de cabeza with the house toppings of cactus strips (nopalitos) and potatoes. But for classic comfort get the Taco de Jose, named for owner Luis Villalva’s father and the elder Villalva’s favorite taco. The combo of refried beans, queso fresco, and avocado is the stuff of a mid-afternoon—or midnight, on Fridays and Saturdays—snack. It is something so simple and delightful, it’s easy to forget the taqueria’s modern trappings, what with its attractive Day of the Dead sugar skull designs adjacent to an unfinished concrete wall, a dining room filled with varnished wood tables bearing a burned-in brand, and the overkill pastel palette. Also noteworthy are the chapulines (roasted grasshoppers) and escamoles (ant larvae), Mexican delicacies that, while not always available, make for excellent tacos when boosted with a shot of guacamole and Valentina hot sauce.
2513 N. Fitzhugh Ave., Dallas (214-821-3738). Open Tue-Thur 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri-Sat 11 a.m.–2 a.m., Sun 11 a.m.–9 p.m.