Mexican cuisine is not some homogenous cuisine neatly bounded by corn. Rather it’s defined by its regions, and Morales Restaurant specializes in the cooking of the mountainous interstate Huasteca province, serving traditional dishes like zacahuil, a fragrant banana leaf-wrapped pork tamal that can feed a quinceñera. But the gem here is a plate of rojos de papas, small tacos of red tortillas (the color derived from the chiles used in the masa) wrapped around barely mashed potatoes concealed by a mound of shredded lettuces, queso fresco, and a couple of slices of tomato that are bordered by thin rounds of potatoes mixed with chorizo. The shareable dish is warm and light, yet jammed with all the fixings. The tortillas may not be freshly prepared, but they did not crack when pinched and they weren’t oily, not too shabby for a wrapper not made in-house.
612 Schooldell Dr., Dallas (214-331-4006). Open Mon-Sat 7 a.m.–3 p.m.