Revolver Taco Lounge
It’s difficult to select a favorite taco at Revolver Taco Lounge. The duck, a medium-rare slice of breast with a band of fat that is augmented with sautéed onion and a slice of roasted poblano alongside deep tomatillo-chile de árbol salsa is stunning. But if we had to pick just one, it would be the huitlacoche, packed with funky, nutty corn fungus and a sprinkling of queso fresco. It is a delicacy worth seeking out, whatever the price point—in this case that is $15. It’s because the stuff is so fresh (the Rojas use fresh or they don’t use it at all). But it’s witnessing the camaraderie of family that makes Revolver so welcoming. In the kitchen, owner Regino “Gino” Rojas’s Mexican-smock-wearing mother, Juanita, does the cooking. Her sister, Teresa, dressed in the same traditional manner, is dedicated to the delicate tortillas, which aren’t attended to until ordering and are so new to the world when they reach the table they’ll burn your fingers. El Gorupo, the mustached Rojas patriarch and a gun engraver since childhood, is the dishwasher, and don’t be surprised if Gino is your waiter.
2822 W. 7th St., Fort Worth (817-820-0122). Open Tue-Sat 5 p.m.–10 p.m.