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Where to Eat Now 2014

No. 2 Casa Rubia


Photograph by Kevin Marple

Inspired by the tidal wave of creativity pouring out of Spain over the past decade, chef Omar Flores has taken that country’s abundance of ingredients and ideas and given them a radical yet reverential twist. The results are electrifying, with flavors so complex that you find yourself pausing mid-bite to ponder what is going on. One such dish is his crispy fried artichokes topped with thin-sliced salt-cured tuna. You grab a leaf and swish it in a big, luscious dollop of yellow saffron aioli, dragging along leaves of parsley and mint. In another of my favorites, a square of black cod luxuriates in an emulsion of butter touched with chervil, the sauce pooling deliciously in the bowl. A paella variant involving noodles, cooked in a potent reduction of tomatoes and Spanish chorizo, has a wonderfully charred flavor. Couples intent on a tête-à-tête will find many obliging nooks in the spare, dark room, while the two communal tables provide inviting spots for solo diners. Do not fail to notice the leg of jamón ibérico sitting proudly on the kitchen counter, just as its porky brethren do in restaurants and markets all over Spain. Casa Rubia Opened November 18, 2013. 3011 Gulden Ln, Ste 116 (469-513-6349). D Mon–Sat. $$–$$$


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