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Small Town Smokers: Momma Jean’s BBQ

Momma Jean’s BBQ in Lampasas, which opened a little more than a year ago, is named after gregarious pitmaster Johnny Walker’s 89-year-old mother, who taught him how to cook. The love and joy Walker puts into his work shines through not just in the food he creates—all the classics, made using family recipes—but also through his interaction with customers. We stopped by to chat with Walker about his style and what makes for true Texas barbecue.