Eat My Words

Eat My Words|
February 12, 2009

Kent Rathbun’s Latest

News flash: Big-time Dallas chef Kent Rathbun is going casual. On Feb. 23, he will open Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen at 6130 Luther Lane, 214-890-1103. He says it will feature the kinds of dishes he ccoks for the family, and that he grew up eating himself. Hmmmmm. I’m

Eat My Words|
February 9, 2009

Sweets to the Sweet

Maybe you know someone who adores cookbooks. For Valentine’s, get them Dallas Classic Desserts, a new, beautifully photographed little tome from Pelican ($15.95–but it’s actually already on Amazon for less!). Here’s some of what’s in it: a Valrhona chocolate bar from Bijoux restaurant; a blueberry cobbler with lemon-verbena frozen yogurt

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February 7, 2009

Candy Is Dandy, But Liquor Is Quicker

Get high on Valentine’s–SXUL Chocolates (yes, their real name) has introduced a chocolate-flavored vodka in sexy black bottles. The company already markets irresistible bonbons, which I have tasted and can vouch for. If you want to try either the spirits or the sweets, check out the Spec’s liquor

Eat My Words|
February 6, 2009

It’s a Tropical Eat Wave

I’ve been eating my way through a ton of ethnic restaurants for a story we’re doing. One of the highlights of my Houston trip was the Banana Leaf, a roughly six- or eight-month-old Malaysian cafe way out west on Bellaire Boulevard. It has split-bamboo-lined walls, giving it a bit of

Eat My Words|
January 22, 2009

Dive In

Friends began to email back in August, saying, you gotta try this place in Austin named the Good Knight, it’s almost ready for prime time, some things are so good, yada yada yada (is that how you spell yada?). Finally, I went. Yes! First, lower your decor expectations (their ain’t

Eat My Words|
January 21, 2009

Dallas Morning News Has New Restaurant Critic

They’ve got a live one at the Dallas News: Leslie Brenner is going to be the new restaurant critic, starting mid-February. She’s got serious credentials, having been most recently the Sunday magazine editor at the LA Times and prior to that, the newspaper’s restaurant critic. Read more on the DMN

Eat My Words|
January 21, 2009

Earthquake: Jeffrey’s Chef Leaving!

Jeffrey’s owner Ron Weiss is letting the news media know that Alma Alcocer-Thomas is leaving the Austin restaurant, where she has cooked, most recently as exeucutive chef, for sixteen years. The new man at the range will be Deegan McClung, who is now executive chef at Cissi’s Market on South

Eat My Words|
January 14, 2009

Nobody Knows the Truffles I’ve Seen

I think Texas Monthly needs to send me to the Truffle Festival in Eugene, Oregon. Never mind it’s totally for my own benefit and enjoyment. Ohmigod, theyre having truffle dinners (but of course), truffle cooking classes with hubba-hubba chefs, and book signings. Plus, you’re in OREGON! Listen to what

Eat My Words|
January 7, 2009

Who’s Read The Flavor Bible?

I’m having whip-lash over my attitude toward The Flavor Bible, the new book that everybody’s talking about from Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg (Little, Brown, pub.; $35 new).  I love the chefs’ commentary (includes pithy remarks from two Texans–Sharon Hage of York Street in Dallas, and Monica Pope of T’afia

Eat My Words|
January 6, 2009

Letting Your Geek Flag Fly

And while I was getting exercised over my fat sandwich (below), I was reading The Science of Good Food, a (sort of) new book on kitchen chemistry. If you love Alton Brown‘s Good Eats show (and who doesn’t?), you’ll probably like Science, although Brown’s a whole lot more riduculous

Eat My Words|
January 6, 2009

Down With Overstuffed Sandwiches

When, pray tell, did it become acceptable for nice restaurants to wad up the meat in the middle of the sandwich? I mean, I understand it at an Arby’s. Arby’s has no class. But I just had an (otherwise pretty good) thin-sliced beef and slaw and cheddar “Bevo” sandwich at

Eat My Words|
January 2, 2009

Sunday Night Foodball

You might want to stake a claim to your local TV this Sunday, Jan. 4, at 7 p.m. Central time. That’s when the Food Network will show its “Challenge” program featuring the famous Hico Steak Cook-off, Beef Symposium, and Tourist Trap. I was actually on hand this summer when

Eat My Words|
January 1, 2009

Awww, Good for Them

Wiseman House Chocolates just blows me away. It’s in the little burg of Hico (hie-ko) in north central Texas and it makes fantastic chocolates. Yes, right there, in town. Beautiful bonbons and truffles. Amazing hot chocolate mix, so rich. Now, they’ve been invited to the presidential inauguration. The Texas

Eat My Words|
December 29, 2008

Cool (or maybe it’s Hot) Cookbook

Plate  & Vine is a new online cookbook with recipes from Texas chefs. One neat thing about it is that it automatically adjusts the recipes for the size of your group and it will generate a shopping list, too. It’s from the Wine and Food Foundation of Texas and they

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December 23, 2008

Las Manitas Truly Gone But Not Forgotten

The beloved scruffy building that housed downtown Austin’s Las Manitas Mexican restaurant is gone–razed Monday by the property owner. Ironically, plans are on hold for constructing a giant Marriott Hotel on the site. Of course, the demolition changes nothing. Las Manitas was doomed anyway and the building’s removal was only

Eat My Words|
December 4, 2008

Baby, It’s Cold Outside

In January, the Gage Hotel, which is one of my all-time favorite romantic destinations in West Texas (well, the rooms in the Los Portales section are, not the ones with the bathrooms down the hall in the historic building–not so romantic running into some unknown dude in his

Eat My Words|
November 26, 2008

Gael Force Winds

Perhaps you never hung on every naughty, sensuous word of Gael Greene, who was New York magazine’s head restaurant critic for decades. But lots of us did, and when the news boiled over earlier this week that La Gael had gotten the sack, we were stunned. As one of her

Eat My Words|
November 21, 2008

Score

  If you haven’t been to Cover 3, go. We had a fantastic meal at this stylish new restaurant (it opened last week) on Anderson Lane in Austin. We admit we were a little skeptical of the concept–a high-end sports bar?–but we liked what we saw. And so

Eat My Words|
November 19, 2008

All Hail King Dean the First

The New York-based Zagat guides have just come out with their latest rankings of hotels, resorts, and spas. What’s number one in the country? Texas’ own Ritz-Carlton Hotel and Fearing’s restaurant, in Dallas. Here’s what the breathless news release says: ‘Rated extraordinary to perfection in each

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November 13, 2008

Supernatural Tacos

Social justice, moral rectitude, and mass compassion aren’t usually washed down with a margarita, but Carlos Santana believes he can serve up all of this and some delicious duck tacos at Maria Maria, a restaurant chain (they also have Joe Di Maggio’s in the Domain) with the first Texas outlet

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November 4, 2008

Wolfgang Puck Restaurant Coming to Big D

Come January, Dallas is scheduled to get a new revolving restaurant atop Reunion Tower, courtesy of chef Wolfgang Puck. (The Tower is the dandelion-topped building from the opening credits of the TV show “Dallas,” in case you’re not from the city.)  The name of the restaurant hasn’t been announced–in other

Eat My Words|
September 30, 2008

Support Your Local Restaurants on Wednesday

As far as I’m concerned, any day is the right day to eat out, but tomorrow–Wednesday, October 1–is especially right. Why? Because some of your dining dollars may help a food bank in your city. The gig is the Go Texan Restaurant Round-Up, a charitable event sponsored by the Texas

Eat My Words|
September 22, 2008

Eat Out, Be Happy, Do Good

I love this idea: Go out to eat on Wednesday, Oct. 1, and be a do-gooder without even breaking a sweat. A whole slew of Texas restaurants are part of the first-ever statewide dine-out day next week. If you visit them on Oct. 1, you’ll be promoting Texas foods and

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September 2, 2008

End of an Era: Austin’s Las Manitas: “Closed.”

When I arrived at work today (the Tuesday after Labor Day), the first words out of editor Evan Smith’s mouth were, “Las Manitas is closed. They’ve hauling the furniture and fixtures out the back and there’s a big sign on the front door that says, Closed Forever.” Forget the Republican

Eat My Words|
August 21, 2008

Back to the Future with the Frisco Shop

By the most conservative estimate, my dear departed father ate at the Nighthawk, near the UT campus 18,237 times in his eighty years on this earth. That’s lunch every working day for 35 years (he was a journalism prof), followed by a snack in the middle of the afternoon. The

Eat My Words|
August 11, 2008

Eating Houston

To hell with Zagat. What you want is The Ultimate Food Lover’s Guide to Houston. A little larger than a pocket book but still handy (at 5″ x 8″), it is a smart, witty, 352-page guide to not only Houston restaurants but the area’s entire food scene. I especially like

Eat My Words|
August 7, 2008

Got Pie?

No, it’s not as lucrative as the Pillsbury Bake-off, but it’s not as nerve-racking either. Enter the Driskill Hotel’s first annual Pie Bake-off and you could be the winner of a $500 gift certificate from the historic Austin hotel. Plus, your pie will be famous not just for fifteen minutes

Eat My Words|
August 6, 2008

Blue Humor

Beaver’s Ice House, in Houston, has gone blue with a vengeance. You know Beaver’s, right, it’s Monica Pope’s retro-mod barbecue joint. Seems that the girl has thrown political neutrality to the four winds and is having what she calls “Blue State Tuesdays” there every Tuesday evening from

Eat My Words|
July 31, 2008

The Boy’s (Soon to Be) Back in Town

Paul Petersen, executive chef of Cafe Cenizo at the Gage Hotel in Marathon, is scouting locations in Austin. So says a trustworthy source. Plans are to develop a second restaurant here in town, with Paul directing both it and the one at the Gage. Fantastic! Read up

Eat My Words|
July 25, 2008

What’s Not To Like About Fruit Bat Soup?

I think it’s weekend silliness setting in, but I am rolling on the floor (well, maybe flopping around on the floor is more like it) after reading the list of attractions for a trip to Palau, including fabulous waterfalls, jungle river-boat cruises, and fruit bat soup! Yes,

Eat My Words|
July 8, 2008

Eating Vancouver–Part 2

I won’t mention the shock to a Texan’s system of seeing several signs in Vancouver for ‘Steamed Burritos.” I mean, I love the city, but are they INSANE in British Columbia? Oh, all right, I didn’t try one (would you?), so how can I criticize? Even so, the whole idea

Eat My Words|
June 30, 2008

Eating Vancouver

Wouldn’t you know it? I flee Texas for Vancouver, Canada and they’re having a heat wave–gawd, it must have been 90 degrees yesterday. There is no justice. But, still, what a beautiful city. Struck out on a couple of recommended places–don’t bother with Congee Noodle–it’s allegedly an authnetic noodle house,

Eat My Words|
June 10, 2008

Further Update on Snow’s

In the “Know Before You Go” category, I’m just sayin’ that if you don’t get your pre-order into Snow’s by this Wednesday, June 11, you may come up empty (see post just below this one for details). I talked to Kerry Bexley, the owner (pictured), this morning, and he’s feeling a

Eat My Words|
June 3, 2008

Fast Food, Slow Food, It’s All Good

Never let it be said that I missed an opportunity to toot my own horn. Well, and the horns of my colleagues. TM has a new book out–a melting pot with our best food stories of the last decade or so. Now you don’t have to feel guilty about tossing

Eat My Words|
June 2, 2008

New York Times [Hearts] Texas

Well, well, well. The Texas Hill Country was the numero uno summer travel destination in the NY Times this Sunday. Specifically, they touted our wineries (this image is of Flat Creek Estate). Also, to toot our own horn some more, remember that you can

Eat My Words|
May 29, 2008

This Little Piggy

Here’s something that fits right in with the local food craze: “Nose to tail eating.” I just gave it a whirl at Feast, in Houston. Granted, the idea of eating the whole critter, inside and out, may not be everybody’s cup of tea, but what they’re doing at Feast

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April 30, 2008

A Perfect Lunch

I pity anyone who doesn’t live in Austin, because they can’t have lunch at La Traviata. Today chef-owner Marion Gillcrist did ravioli with lamb shank in ragu, a marvel of parchment-thin pasta filled with fluffy ricotta in a deeply meaty sauce swimming with fava beans, crisp green peas, and

Eat My Words|
April 7, 2008

The End of Civilization as We Know It

Oh heck. I missed April Fool’s. Actually, this is for real. Don’t gag, but there is a recipe for Spam fajitas on the Internet. Yes, people, you cut Spam into strips and saute it with (get this) bell peppers and Chi-Chi’s salsa (another unforgettable product of the Hormel company)

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March 26, 2008

Must . . Have . . . Chocolate

I ran into the Fat Turkey Chocolate people at a little farmers market behind Casis Village in Austin last Saturday and they said they had some new combos, including a truffle with a dark chocolate shell and dark chocolate ganache as the filling, blended with, get ready, sweet potato

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