Henry Cisneros’ power derived from his ability to bring people together. It was supposed to get him elected governor, senator, president. He’s finally the president, all right —of a Spanish-language TV network. And all thoughts of a career in public life are in the past.
Aldaco’s 100 Hoefgen, Sunset Station; from downtown, go east on Market Street under I-37, north on the service road, right on Commerce, and right on Hoefgen; 210-222-0561. Last year twelve tables, this year fifty: Tiny Aldaco’s has moved into a cavernous but spiffily remodeled railroad terminal practically next door to
La Fogata Calle Matamoros Ote. 750, 011-52-89-22-47-72. A great place to cool your heels after tramping around Reynosa. The white walls, dark carved-wood bar, and arched stone window frames exude serenity. Cabrito (order the shoulder cut) is tender; the butterflied beef filet (medium-well-done unless you specify otherwise) comes in
EL DORADO Belden at Ocampo, 011-52-87-12-00-15. The point of visiting the former, original Cadillac Bar is not to eat, though you can certainly do that here. The point is, and always has been, to have an ethereal Ramos Gin Fizz, laugh and carry on, see somebody you haven’t seen in
MARIA BONITA 1612 N. Eleventh, 956-687-7181. Carved lava-stone columns add a touch of Mexican character to an otherwise unremarkable space, and the food is more authentic than is the norm hereabouts. Grilled items, a specialty, are served on tabletop braziers to keep them hot (ask for a platter so they
BIGO’S PARRILLA Avenida Alvaro Obregón 48 at Azucenas, 011-52-88-16-25-29, and one other location; personal checks accepted, no credit cards.“Todo al carbón” (“Everything’s grilled”) at this little brick-fronted cafe on a major tourist strip. Families and dates chow down on good, smoky fajita meat in the world’s smallest corn tortillas. On
COTULLA STYLE PIT B.B.Q. 4502 McPherson, 956-724-5747. You can get decent, not-too-Americanized Mexican food at busy, barnlike Cotulla, which is famous for its barbecue and its huge variety of mariachis (borderspeak for “soft tacos”). Guacamole: 4.5 (avocado and fixings). Chips: 3. Salsa: 1 (totally bland). EL TACO TOTE 5603
CASA DEL SOL Avenida Lincoln at Calle Ignacio Mejía, 011-52-16-13-65-09 or 16-00-88. Casa del Sol makes the most original chile relleno in Juárez—a beautifully simple ancho (a dried, ripe poblano that’s been plumped up) filled with sour cream and ricottalike panela cheese. It tastes like a sun-dried tomato, but better.
BLUE AGAVE 1340 West Gray, 713-520-9696. Order pollo gordo (“fat chicken”) and you’ll be gordo by the time you finish the generous breast stuffed with spinach and pepper cheese in chipotle cream. Your wallet, however, will be thin: Most entrée prices are in the teens. This trendy, exuberantly tacky spot
CUQUITA’S 2326 N. Henderson, 214-823-1859; cash only.Pozole (hominy stew) and lengua (tongue) make the menu more Mex-Mex, but there’s plenty of Tex-Mex at this fine place. The homemade lemonade is a nice little appetizer all by itself, and you’ll still feel like ordering simple and flavorful burritos (bean, chicken, and
THE ORIGINALMEXICAN CAFE 1401 Market, 409-762-6001. With its bright, bouncy colors, paper flowers, and pots of bougainvillea on the patio, the Original could have been created by central casting. Depending on what you order, you’ll finish with a smile or a grimace. The fajitas Jalisco, so tantalizingly described on the
CHANGO’S TAQUERIA 3023 Guadalupe, 512-480-8226. This bright little taquería near the university is great for a quickie (meal). The menu is minuscule, with mostly tacos and burritos, and you stand in line to order, but the corn tortillas are handmade right on the spot—a mesmerizing operation—and the food is
BENITO’S 1450 W. Magnolia Avenue, 817-332-8633. What a find! You’ll think you’ve died and gone to Mexico when you walk into this little old-fashioned place. Sopes—thick corn-cake tarts—come smeared with refried beans, grated cheese, and (unfortunately) tasteless green-chile sauce. A gigantic Oaxaca-style chicken-and-mole tamal wrapped in a banana leaf would
When the notorious Dallas mobster and gambler Benny Binion died ten years ago, he passed on a multimillion-dollar legacy to his children. Have they made a mess of it? You bet.
When you fall in love with a piece of land in Texas, you quickly learn that it changes. And it changes you.
The Big Enchilada Enchiladas Zacatecanas from Las Manitas, Austin Quick: define “enchilada.” Most people would say it’s a rolled or folded tortilla filled with something savory, topped with a sauce, and blanketed in melted cheese. And that would certainly be one correct definition. But if you go by the etymology
CAFE CENTRAL 109 N. Oregon at 1 Texas Court, 915-545-2233. This chic upscale spot is more a continental than a Mexican restaurant, but the Mexican dishes it does have are original and excellent, including wonderfully crisp bacon-wrapped prawns in a chipotle marinade, lovely puntas de filete (sliced tenderloin) in
Laugh not, wretch, at the man in the tights: Twenty-five years after George Coulam founded the Texas Renaissance Festival, it hath been a big success.
I can see without my glasses for the first time since childhood, which is why I’m a fan of LASIK surgery. But don’t take my word for it; ask Troy Aikman.
Anne Rapp’s first script for Robert Altman, Cookie’s Fortune, was critically acclaimed. The second is now being filmed in Dallas and stars Richard Gere. Not bad for a girl from a tiny Panhandle town.
A charter school that makes the grade.
DURING THE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIES, emotional issues abounded—civil rights, the Vietnam War, women’s liberation. But what outraged social activist Mickey Leland the most was hunger, and the fact that it existed in his own Houston neighborhood. Early on, Leland’s passion for helping the common people catapulted him into the spotlight.
Ricky Martin brings his hipness (and hips) to Dallas, Houston, and San Antonio. Plus: The Texas Cowboy Hall of Fame in Hico rounds up a few heroes; a Spring Storm makes a fall premiere in Austin; the No Tsu Oh Festival turns Houston upside down (and backward); and four hot
Forget the recipe secrets. What we want to know is how senior editor Patricia Sharpe—the Calista Flockhart of Texas Monthly—keeps her slender figure. For this month’s cover story on Mexican food (see “The Joy of Mex,”), Sharpe dined at more than 120 restaurants on both sides of the
FOR US TEXPATRIATES, JOHN CAMPBELL was an excellent choice for “The Texas Twenty” [September 1999]. We miss a lot about Texas and, in particular, Austin. Sadly, friends and co-workers in Southern California don’t get it when we rhapsodize about Central Market: “A grocery store? Whatever.” We try to explain the
From Francesca’s at the Westin La Cantera Resort in San Antonio.
1 ear of corn 2 serrano chiles 1 cup yellow stone-ground corn grits 1 tablespoon basil, cut in strips 1 1/2 teaspoons olive oil salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Preheat oven to 375 degrees or heat up a grill. Roast whole corn in oven for 45 minutes or
3/8 cup olive oil 3/4 cup lime juice 1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic 1/2 teaspoon cumin 1/4 cup fresh oregano (1/8 cup dried) 3/4 teaspoon salt Whisk ingredients together and refrigerate for 2 hours.
salt (coarse if available) 1 ounce white tequila (Herradura is excellent) 1 ounce Controy (Mexican orange liqueur) juice of 1 Mexican lime ice Moisten the rim of a cocktail glass with lime juice and invert in a saucer of salt. Shake tequila, liqueur, lime juice, and ice together and strain
Cilantro—Pumpkin Seed Sauce 1 bunch cilantro (cut off large stems) 1/4 cup raw pepitas (pumpkin seeds) 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese or queso cotija 1 1/2teaspoons minced garlic 1/ 4cup olive oil Purée all ingredients in a blender to a pestolike consistency. Shrimp 2 tablespoons olive oil 24 jumbo shrimp,
Guajillo Sauce 1 pound ripe Roma tomatoes 1 pound tomatillos, husks removed 1 large white onion, peeled and cut into eighths 6 cloves garlic, peeled 1 ounce guajillo chiles (approximately 4 chiles; guajillos are about 4 inches long, reddish-brown, and smooth-skinned; they are sometimes labeled “cascabel” chiles in stores); or
1/2 bunch cilantro (cut off large stems) 2 scallions, white part and some of the green stem 1/2 medium onion, peeled 2 tomatoes 2 serranos or 1 jalapeño, stemmed (seeded if you wish) 1 avocado, peeled 1/2teaspoon salt or to taste Divide first 6 ingredients into 2 batches. Coarsely chop
Chicken Filling 1 whole frying chicken, giblets and excess fat removed 1/2 medium onion, peeled and sliced 1 clove garlic, peeled 1 tablespoon salt 2 tablespoons butter or margarine 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced 1/2 medium onion, peeled and chopped 1 medium tomato, chopped 1/2 bell pepper, seeded and
Corn-Serrano Grits 1 ear of corn 2 serrano chiles 1 cup yellow stone-ground corn grits 1 tablespoon basil, cut in strips 1 1/2 teaspoons olive oil salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Preheat oven to 375 degrees or heat up a grill. Roast whole corn in oven for 45
Ping-Pong balls in our governor’s past.
MUSIC Roy Orbison The Roy Orbison Official Authorized Bootleg CollectionOrbison Records HOW TIMES HAVE CHANGED. Bootleggers of music, once reviled as thieves of intellectual property, are now being recognized as archivists, Bob Dylan’s “Royal Albert Hall” concert of 1966 being the most notable example. Now comes one of Texas’ genuine
What is George W. Bush up to? Twice he has criticized his own party, charging that congressional Republicans were trying to “balance the budget on the backs of the poor” and that the GOP has concentrated on economic issues at the expense of “human problems that persist in the shadow
“I am a writer from a particular community in Texas,” says 38-year-old Sergio Troncoso. “It’s not even El Paso. It’s Ysleta, the east side of El Paso. I grew up around cotton fields and combines.” That environment has emerged in Troncoso’s stories years after he left for the East
I knew what I wanted to do when I was four years old in nursery school and stood on a chair and pretended that I was directing an orchestra. When I was around nineteen, I was playing guitar and decided that I wanted to be a folksinger. But the problem
Don Graham on Sallie Reynolds Matthews.