March 1990 Issue



The Land, The Roots, The Myth

Whether it wells from the high pine walss of East Texas, the haunted valleys of the Hill Country, the violent uplifts of the Trans-Pecos, or the salty, low-relief vistas of the coastal plains, the Texas myth shapes and claims up all. Leo Tynan. Country Doctor. Linda Walker. Ranch Matriarch. Elroy


Work and Reward

For some, work is its own reward. For others it is a compromise, a trade-off to some ulterior purpose. And yet it is the owrk that defines us. There is something in the doing that gives us stature and makes us whole. Terry Flowers. Island in the Slum. Gigi Huang.


Passion and Adventure

Texas was founded by risk-takers, place-makers, and folks on the run, and their spiritual descendants are our common stock. Our heritage is not a concert for the fainthearted, but if you hear the music you’ll want to dance. Cheater Bella. Breakout. Marvell E. White. Prejudice and Pride. Mary Christine Higgins.


Hope and Despair

Face it, life isn’t fair. The cards fall in random patterns, and for every winner there is an uncomfortable number of losers. But what goes around comes around, and in the seeds of calamity we often find new beginnings. Mary Margaret Adams. To Russia With Love. Letty Banda. Be It


Family and Friendship

Our search for identity is really a search for familial bonds. By our children and our parents, by our forebears and our closest friends, by the reflections of those with whom we surround ourselves, so shall you know us. Shelilah Tucker. My Daughter, My Self. Sheri Connell and Cindy Garzonie.


Boom and Bust

When oil and real estate boomed, a lot of Texans rode the tiger. But the beast turned, and those who weren’t devoured faced the prospect of limping back. It has been a long but not uninteresting trip. Hank Avery. Wheeler-dealer. Ron Burton. Still Rocking Along. Joan Yamini. The Conscience of


State Secrets

State Secrets

Touching bases at the Pentagon; the next lawsuit after school finance; the hidden battle for control of the Legislature.


Domain Supplement

Domain Recipe

Buttermilk Pie

Drew Allen, a co-owner of San Antonio’s Liberty Bar, came across this custardy buttermilk pie recipe in an out-of-print forties cookbook. The pie was powerfully sweet for modern taste buds, so Allen halved the sugar to come up with his restaurant’s most popular dessert. 4 ounces frozen butter 1 ounce

Cultural Exchange

Vietnamese cuisine is a multiethnic parade of Chinese techniques, French flavors, and spices from India. New ingredients, such as catfish and serrano peppers, add a Texas twang.

Domain Recipe

Shrimp Salad

8 medium shrimp, peeled and deveined 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 3 ounces uncooked chicken breast, cut into chunks 1/4 small head each of red and green cabbage, chopped 2 teaspoons chopped fresh mint leaves 2 tablespoons chopped bean sprouts 3 garlic gloves, chopped Green tops of 2 green onions, chopped

Domain Recipe

Spring Rolls With Peanut Sauce

Spring Rolls 2 ounces thin rice vermicelli 8 uncooked medium shrimp 12 ounces boneless pork loin, in 1 piece 1 large carrot, shredded 1 teaspoon sugar 8 rounds rice paper (banh trang), each 8 1/2 inches in diameter 4 large leaves leaf lettuce with thick stem ends removed, cut in

Domain Recipe

Charcoal-Broiled Pork With Rice Vermicelli

1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar 1/2 cup nuoc mam 4 shallots, thinly sliced Freshly ground black pepper, to taste 8 ounces thin rice vermicelli 1 pound boneless pork loin 1 pound ground beef (chuck) 8 garlic cloves, minced 24 bamboo skewers, soaked in water for 30 minutes (use metal

Domain Story

Vietnamese Grocery Stores

Most of the specialty items needed to prepare Vietnamese recipes can be found at the following Asian and Vietnamese groceries. Austin Lien, Huong Oriental Market, 8610 N. Lamar, 512-835-9618. My Thanh Oriental Market, 7435 N. Lamar, 454-4804. Say Hi, 5249 Burnet Road, 453-1411. Dallas Asian Grocery, 9191 Forest Lane, 214-235-3038.

Domain Story

Vietnamese Restaurants

Austin Saigon Kitchen, 9200 N. Lamar, 512-837-9910. This modest-looking restaurant’s bracing hot-and-sour soup was filled with shrimp, pineapple, celery, tomato, okra, noodles, and anise. Vermicelli with rice-paper pancakes that were more like omelettes came with grilled pork, fish sauce, and a platter frilly lettuce, cilantro, cucumbers, and mint. Tender frogs’

Domain Recipe

French Mushroom Salad

Preparation Time: 15 minutes Cooking Time: 10 minutes Make Ahead: 24 hours 1/2 cup dry white wine 2 shallots, finely minced 1 bay leaf 1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme Dash Hungarian paprika or cayenne 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 pound mushrooms

Domain Recipe

Skewered Rosemary Lamb

Preparation Time: 10 minutes Cooking Time: 8 minutes Make Ahead: 24 hours 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1/4 cup red wine vinegar 1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 1 1/2 tablespoons fresh rosemary, crumbled, or 1 teaspoon dried 2 cloves garlic, mashed 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3/4 teaspoon salt

Domain Recipe

Hot-and-Sour Soup

2 teaspoons instant tamarind Salt and sugar, to taste 2 serrano peppers 2 small new potatoes, cut into chunks 1/2 pound catfish, deboned and cut into chunks 2 tablespoons each of chopped pineapple, bean sprouts, and celery 2 teaspoons chopped garlic 1 tablespoon vegetable oil Nuoc mam In large saucepan,

Domain Recipe

Lemon-Garlic Potatoes With Spinach

Preparation Time: 10 minutes Cooking Time: 15 minutes 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 pound unpeeled small new potatoes, cut into eighths 3 large cloves garlic, mashed 1 cup water 1/2 lemon 6 to 8 ounces fresh spinach (or chopped Swiss chard), washed and steamed Kosher salt and freshly ground


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