March 1990 Issue

Features

Feature

Hope and Despair

Face it, life isn’t fair. The cards fall in random patterns, and for every winner there is an uncomfortable number of losers. But what goes around comes around, and in the seeds of calamity we often find new beginnings. Mary Margaret Adams. To Russia With Love. Letty Banda. Be It

Miscellany

State Secrets

State Secrets

Touching bases at the Pentagon; the next lawsuit after school finance; the hidden battle for control of the Legislature.

Reporter

Domain Supplement

Buttermilk Pie

Drew Allen, a co-owner of San Antonio’s Liberty Bar, came across this custardy buttermilk pie recipe in an out-of-print forties cookbook. The pie was powerfully sweet for modern taste buds, so Allen halved the sugar to come up with his restaurant’s most popular dessert.4 ounces frozen butter 1 ounce cold

Cultural Exchange

Vietnamese cuisine is a multiethnic parade of Chinese techniques, French flavors, and spices from India. New ingredients, such as catfish and serrano peppers, add a Texas twang.

Shrimp Salad

8 medium shrimp, peeled and deveined 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 3 ounces uncooked chicken breast, cut into chunks 1/4 small head each of red and green cabbage, chopped 2 teaspoons chopped fresh mint leaves 2 tablespoons chopped bean sprouts 3 garlic gloves, chopped Green tops of 2 green onions, chopped

Spring Rolls With Peanut Sauce

Spring Rolls2 ounces thin rice vermicelli 8 uncooked medium shrimp 12 ounces boneless pork loin, in 1 piece 1 large carrot, shredded 1 teaspoon sugar 8 rounds rice paper (banh trang), each 8 1/2 inches in diameter 4 large leaves leaf lettuce with thick stem ends removed, cut in half

Charcoal-Broiled Pork With Rice Vermicelli

1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar 1/2 cup nuoc mam 4 shallots, thinly sliced Freshly ground black pepper, to taste 8 ounces thin rice vermicelli 1 pound boneless pork loin 1 pound ground beef (chuck) 8 garlic cloves, minced 24 bamboo skewers, soaked in water for 30 minutes (use metal

Vietnamese Grocery Stores

Most of the specialty items needed to prepare Vietnamese recipes can be found at the following Asian and Vietnamese groceries.AustinLien, Huong Oriental Market, 8610 N. Lamar, 512-835-9618. My Thanh Oriental Market, 7435 N. Lamar, 454-4804. Say Hi, 5249 Burnet Road, 453-1411.DallasAsian Grocery, 9191 Forest Lane, 214-235-3038. Laos Store, 4536 Bryan,

Vietnamese Restaurants

AustinSaigon Kitchen, 9200 N. Lamar, 512-837-9910. This modest-looking restaurant’s bracing hot-and-sour soup was filled with shrimp, pineapple, celery, tomato, okra, noodles, and anise. Vermicelli with rice-paper pancakes that were more like omelettes came with grilled pork, fish sauce, and a platter frilly lettuce, cilantro, cucumbers, and mint. Tender frogs’ legs

French Mushroom Salad

Preparation Time: 15 minutes Cooking Time: 10 minutes Make Ahead: 24 hours1/2 cup dry white wine 2 shallots, finely minced 1 bay leaf 1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme Dash Hungarian paprika or cayenne 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 pound mushrooms with

Skewered Rosemary Lamb

Preparation Time: 10 minutes Cooking Time: 8 minutes Make Ahead: 24 hours1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1/4 cup red wine vinegar 1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 1 1/2 tablespoons fresh rosemary, crumbled, or 1 teaspoon dried 2 cloves garlic, mashed 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3/4 teaspoon salt (preferably

Hot-and-Sour Soup

2 teaspoons instant tamarind Salt and sugar, to taste 2 serrano peppers 2 small new potatoes, cut into chunks 1/2 pound catfish, deboned and cut into chunks 2 tablespoons each of chopped pineapple, bean sprouts, and celery 2 teaspoons chopped garlic 1 tablespoon vegetable oil Nuoc mamIn large saucepan, bring

Lemon-Garlic Potatoes With Spinach

Preparation Time: 10 minutes Cooking Time: 15 minutes1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 pound unpeeled small new potatoes, cut into eighths 3 large cloves garlic, mashed 1 cup water 1/2 lemon 6 to 8 ounces fresh spinach (or chopped Swiss chard), washed and steamed Kosher salt and freshly ground black

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