Paella—Spain’s saffron-hued rice and seafood dish—comes in infinite, subtle variations. Restaurant co-owner Veronica Prida keeps the recipe light for nineties tastes, concentrating on seafood and chicken and omitting the usual sausage. She suggests preparing the rice and chicken ahead of time; the shrimp, mussels, clams, and scallops can be quick-cooked
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Saffron Rice2/3 cup uncooked rice 1/3 cup diced yellow onion 1 tablespoon safflower or other light oil 1 1/3 cup water 3 or 4 strands saffron 1/4 teaspoon salt Freshly ground white pepper to taste In a medium saucepan, sauteé rice and onion in oil until onion is translucent. In