October 1988 Issue


Tempest in a Taco

Taco Cabana pioneered patio dining—a winning formula of Tex-Mex food and margaritas in the open air. When competitor Two Pesos introduced its look-alike layout, the lawsuits started to fly.




Texas Monthly Reporter

Corpus Christi learns to grow through adversity; Houston gives Percy Foreman a rousing send-off; Austin ponders the mystery of the misappearing shoes.


Domain Supplement

Peach Ice Cream

Olive Hershey’s Peach Ice Cream 1 quart milk 6 egg yolks 3/4 to 1 pound powdered sugar, depending on sweetness desired 1 dozen medium-sized ripe peaches 1 pint cream Make custard by scalding milk in double boiler. Beat yolks and sugar in bowl. Add to milk. Cook in double

Watermelon Pickle

John Leeper’s Watermelon Pickle 10 pounds peeled watermelon rind (see below) 12 pounds granulated sugar 1 quart white vinegar 18 to 20 drops oil of cinnamon 18 to 20 drops oil of cloves Cut all green parts from watermelon rind before weighing (if firm, a little of the green may

Orange Pancakes

The Whistlers’ Orange Pancakes 2 eggs 1/4 cup oil 2 cups whole wheat or white flour 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 1/2 to 2 cups orange juice Beat eggs with oil until light. Sift dry ingredients together, and add to eggs. Slowly stir in juice until

Smoked and Grilled Shrimp

Robert Tabak’s Smoked and Grilled Shrimp 2 pounds large shrimp, shells on 1 tablespoon black pepper 2 teaspoons white pepper 2 teaspoons cayenne pepper, or to taste 1 tablespoon garlic powder 1 tablespoon onion powder 2 teaspoons lemon pepper 2 teaspoons paprika Salt, to taste (optional) 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive

Clay-Pot Orange Duckling

Garry Olah’s Clay-Pot Orange Duckling 1 three-to-five-pound duckling Salt Freshly ground black pepper 3 or 4 garlic cloves, crushed 2 or 3 medium oranges, peeled and sliced (reserve rind) 1 tablespoon bottled orange-peel spice 3/4 cup orange juice 1/2 cup soy sauce 2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger 1 teaspoon ground

Two-Tone Chili

Chris “Whip” Layton’s Two-Tone Chili 2 bottles dark beer (Dos Equis) or 2 cans (15 ounces each) chicken stock Juice of 4 limes 6 tablespoons Pickapeppa steak sauce 3 pounds venison stew meat 5 slices bacon 1 large white onion, coarsely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 4 tablespoons chili powder

Crawfish Etouffee

Anthony Frederick’s Crawfish Etouffée 1 stick margarine 1/4 cup flour 1 cup chopped green onion 1 cup chopped yellow onion 2 garlic cloves, minced 1/2 cup chopped green pepper 1/2 cup chopped celery 3 small fresh bay leaves 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh thyme 5 teaspoons chopped fresh basil 1

Split Quail With Juniper Berries and Gin

Serves 4 Preparation Time: 5 Minutes Cooking Time: 20 to 30 Minutes 8 small (4-ounce) or 4 large (8-ounce) quail, split down the back and flattened 1/2 cup flour mixed with 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, 1/4 teaspoon black pepper, and 1 teaspoon thyme 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 4 shallots, minced

Warm Caramel Pears

Serves 4 Preparation Time: 5 Minutes Cooking Time: About 10 Minutes 4 large, firm pears (Bartlett, Anjou, Bosc, or Colorado), peeled, cored, and cut into eighths 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 4 tablespoons sugar 3 tablespoons heavy cream Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Mix all ingredients in bowl. Put mixture

Red Cabbage With Texas Goat Cheese and Chives

Serves 4 Preparation Time: 5 Minutes Cooking Time: 15 Minutes 6 strips slab bacon 1 head red cabbage, core removed, finely shredded in food processor, and cut into 3-inch strips 2/3 cup Spanish sherry wine vinegar 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 6 ounces Texas goat

A Grand Finale

“Rice pudding is one of my favorite dishes—we used to have it once a week when I was growing up in England,” Bruce Auden says of the inspiration for this autumnal dessert. “But you can never order it in a restaurant.” When Auden, the executive chef at the Fairmount Restaurant

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