December 1992 Issue

Chris Tiroff showing off her beehive hair in front of plastic hood hair dryers.
On the Cover

Hooray for Big Hair!

A strand-by-strand look at the roots of a Texas phenomenon.


Bill’s Bungle

By not contesting Texas in the presidential campaign, Bill Clinton did more than throw away votes in 1992. He hurt the prospects of Texas Democrats in 1994 and beyond.

The State


State Fare: Soft-Shell Crabs with Moqueca Sauce

Resolutely international, Austin’s Clarksville (1205 N. Lamar) draws on a world of culinary influences, from the Far East to South America. A creation that melds the traditions of two continents is the irresistible fried soft-shell crabs in moqueca sauce. The dish originated in northeastern India as pokeka, a seafood stew.


Lady or Tiger?

Flamboyant philanthropist Wendy Reves showered her hometown with money for a makeover—but she wanted to run the show.


Growing Pains

When the young daughter of a friend walked sooner than my son, my feminist politics collided with my loyalties as a mom.


Sludge Happens

New York sludge is being spread across West Texas. Opponents insist it’s evil filth; others say the smell means jobs.



Seed Fee

Cottonseed was delicious and nutritious, but it was only for cows—until now.


Warm Squab Salad

4 squabs of Cornish hens, wings removed (may also remove wishbone to make slicing easier) Salt to taste Ground black pepper to taste Dash of cayenne pepper 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 small head Bibb lettuce 3 bunches other delicate salad greens 1/2 small head baby chicory, yellow and white

Indian Griddle Cakes

2 cups buttermilk 1 tablespoon melted butter 1 egg 1/3 cup flour 1 cup coarsely ground cornmeal 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons vegetable oilIn medium bowl, combine all ingredients except oil. Mixture should be thickness of pancake batter or heavy cream.Heat small amount of oil in

Beef Tenderloin Marinated in Molasses and Black Pepper

1 cup molasses 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons ground black pepper 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1 large shallot, peeled and finely chopped 2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh thyme Crushed red pepper flakes, to taste 2 pounds center-cut beef tenderloin, trimmed

Date-Nut Chews

3/4 cup flour1/4 teaspoon salt2 large eggs1/2 cup sugar1/2 cup corn syrup1/2 teaspoon pure almond extract1 cup finely chopped dates1 cup chopped pecans1/3 cup sifted confectioners’ sugarPreheat over to 375 degrees. Grease bottom of two 8-inch-square baking pans. Sift flour with salt and set aside. In mixing bowl, beat eggs

Apple-Cranberry Pie with Cheddar Cheese Crust

Crust1 3/4 cup flour 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons sugar 1 cup finely grated cheddar cheese 1 1/2 sticks chilled butter 2 tablespoons chilled shortening 1/4 cup ice waterIn medium bowl, combine dry ingredients and mix in cheese. Cut in butter and shortening with pastry blender until texture resembles coarse

Dried-cherry and Sorghum Syrup Dressing

Squab wings and carcasses reserved from previous recipe, chopped (may also add chicken bones)2 cups veal demiglace (available canned or frozen; reduce by half to concentrate)1/2 cup dried cherries1/2 cup brandy1/2 cup sorghum syrup2 tablespoons hazelnut oil or other nut oil2 shallots, peeled and cut in 1/4-inch cubes2 tablespoons white

Corn Relish

3 cups fresh or frozen corn1 cup finely shredded green cabbage1 cup chopped yellow onion1/2 cup seeded and diced sweet red pepper1 teaspoon whole celery seed1/2 teaspoon whole mustard seed1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric1/2 teaspoon dry mustard1/3 cup sugar1/2 cup cider vinegarPlace all ingredients in heavy saucepan over medium heat and

Smoked-Bacon Compote

1/2 cup marinade reserved from previous recipe 1 cup veal demiglace 1 cup smoked slab bacon cut into 1/2-inch cubes 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 2 cups wild mushrooms, such as brown Italian or shiitake, cut to about size of pearl onions 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 cup sweet-potato balls (prepare

Glazed Pecans

1/2 cup water1/2 cup sugar2 dried red chiles1 cup pecan halves1/4 cup molassesPreheat oven to 250 degrees. Combine water, sugar, and chiles in small saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Add pecans and return to a boil. Lower hear and simmer 10 minutes.Drain pecans, place on cookie sheet,

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