December 1992 Issue

On the Cover

Hooray for Big Hair!

A strand-by-strand look at the roots of a Texas phenomenon.


Bill’s Bungle

By not contesting Texas in the presidential campaign, Bill Clinton did more than throw away votes in 1992. He hurt the prospects of Texas Democrats in 1994 and beyond.



Lady or Tiger?

Flamboyant philanthropist Wendy Reves showered her hometown with money for a makeover—but she wanted to run the show.


Sludge Happens

New York sludge is being spread across West Texas. Opponents insist it’s evil filth; others say the smell means jobs.




Seed Fee

Cottonseed was delicious and nutritious, but it was only for cows—until now.

The State


Biscoitos de Queijo

1 small potato, peeled, cooked, and mashed 1 cup grated Muenster cheese 2 tablespoons butter 1 cup flour 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon baking powder Dash cayenne to taste (optional) 1/4 cup milk or 1 beaten egg yolkPreheat oven to 375 degrees. Combine potato with cheese and butter. Sift dry

Glazed Pecans

1/2 cup water 1/2 cup sugar 2 dried red chiles 1 cup pecan halves 1/4 cup molassesPreheat oven to 250 degrees. Combine water, sugar, and chiles in small saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Add pecans and return to a boil. Lower hear and simmer 10 minutes.Drain pecans,

Smoked-Bacon Compote

1/2 cup marinade reserved from previous recipe 1 cup veal demiglace 1 cup smoked slab bacon cut into 1/2-inch cubes 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 2 cups wild mushrooms, such as brown Italian or shiitake, cut to about size of pearl onions 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 cup sweet-potato balls (prepare

Corn Relish

3 cups fresh or frozen corn 1 cup finely shredded green cabbage 1 cup chopped yellow onion 1/2 cup seeded and diced sweet red pepper 1 teaspoon whole celery seed 1/2 teaspoon whole mustard seed 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard 1/3 cup sugar 1/2 cup cider vinegarPlace

Dried-cherry and Sorghum Syrup Dressing

Squab wings and carcasses reserved from previous recipe, chopped (may also add chicken bones) 2 cups veal demiglace (available canned or frozen; reduce by half to concentrate) 1/2 cup dried cherries 1/2 cup brandy 1/2 cup sorghum syrup 2 tablespoons hazelnut oil or other nut oil 2 shallots, peeled and

Apple-Cranberry Pie with Cheddar Cheese Crust

Crust1 3/4 cup flour 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons sugar 1 cup finely grated cheddar cheese 1 1/2 sticks chilled butter 2 tablespoons chilled shortening 1/4 cup ice waterIn medium bowl, combine dry ingredients and mix in cheese. Cut in butter and shortening with pastry blender until texture resembles coarse

Date-Nut Chews

3/4 cup flour 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 large eggs 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 cup corn syrup 1/2 teaspoon pure almond extract 1 cup finely chopped dates 1 cup chopped pecans 1/3 cup sifted confectioners’ sugarPreheat over to 375 degrees. Grease bottom of two 8-inch-square baking pans. Sift flour with salt

Beef Tenderloin Marinated in Molasses and Black Pepper

1 cup molasses 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons ground black pepper 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1 large shallot, peeled and finely chopped 2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh thyme Crushed red pepper flakes, to taste 2 pounds center-cut beef tenderloin, trimmed

Devilled Oysters

12 well-cleaned oysters with deep shells Cayenne pepper to taste 2 hard-boiled egg yolks 2 raw egg yolks 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon melted butter Salt to taste 2 tablespoons toasted bread crumbs 12 sprigs fresh thymePreheat oven to 350 degrees. Place one oyster in each shell and

Indian Griddle Cakes

2 cups buttermilk 1 tablespoon melted butter 1 egg 1/3 cup flour 1 cup coarsely ground cornmeal 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons vegetable oilIn medium bowl, combine all ingredients except oil. Mixture should be thickness of pancake batter or heavy cream.Heat small amount of oil in

Warm Squab Salad

4 squabs of Cornish hens, wings removed (may also remove wishbone to make slicing easier) Salt to taste Ground black pepper to taste Dash of cayenne pepper 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 small head Bibb lettuce 3 bunches other delicate salad greens 1/2 small head baby chicory, yellow and white

Soft-Shell Crabs with Moqueca Sauce

2 tablespoons dende oil (red palm oil, available at Latin American or African markets) 2 teaspoons minced ginger 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 large onion, diced 1 cup concentrated chicken stock 4 tablespoons lime juice 2 – 3 serranos, minced 2 tablespoons cilantro, chopped 2 tablespoons parsley, chopped 1 cup

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