May 1990 Issue

Vive Le Tex-Mex!

Lone Star cuisine is all the rage in Paris—France, that is.

By Edward Cone

Business

A Bridge Too Far?

Laredo initially hated Monterrey’s plan for a new border crossing but had second thoughts when it realized that there was money to be made.

By Joseph Harmes

Behind the Lines

Literary terrorists.

By Gregory Curtis

Domain Supplement

Savoring Summer

If you can’t stand the heat, take a sip of a cool mango lassi and select refreshing recipes-such as chilled sorrel-and-watercress vichyssoise or gingery shrimp pulao-from these three menus.

By Camille Kraeplin

Grilled New Potatoes and Asparagus

Recipe from chef Jack Chaplin, Chaplin’s, Dallas.16 small red new potatoes 2 pounds fresh asparagus spears 1/4 cup olive oil 12 tablespoons butter, softened 1 teaspoon each of chopped fresh rosemary, parsley, and garlicIn 4-quart pot of boiling water, blanch potatoes for about 15 minutes, until they can be pierced

Shrimp Pulao

3 cups long-grain rice (preferably basmati) 1 large onion 1-inch piece gingerroot, peeled 6 garlic cloves 5 tablespoons peanut oil 1 large tomato, finely chopped 1 1/2 teaspoons poppy seeds Scant 1/2 teaspoon turmeric 3/4 teaspoon each of cumin powder, ground coriander, and Indian red chile powder (or cayenne pepper)

Grilled Pompano, Sea Scallops and Crayfish

Grilled Pompano in Beurre Rouge With Sea Scallops and Crayfish3 shallots, chopped fine 1/2 pound softened butter plus 3 tablespoons butter 1/2 cup each of red and white wine Juice of 1 lemon 1/2 cup heavy cream Salt and white pepper, to taste 1/2 to 3/4 pound precooked crayfish tail

Crab Cakes With Ancho Chile Sauce

Crab Cakes2 cups diced Roma tomatoes 1/4 cup each of minced shallots and garlic 1 cup diced onion 2 tablespoons thinly sliced serrano chiles 2 tablespoons each of sugar and lime juice 1/4 pound fresh scallops, muscle removed Salt and white pepper, to taste 1 1/4 cups chopped cilantro 2

Indian Summer

Indian-born cooking instructor Suneeta Vaswani has won Houstonians’ hearts with her authentic native cuisine. Her buffet for twelve can be made ahead and served at room temperature. Shrimp pulao and a spicy spinach sauté contrast nicely with a crunchy four-bean-and-potato salad and a cool cucumber-peanut relish. Mango lassis are sure

Hot Off The Grill

Favorite neighborhood bistros have long been noted for delicious unpretentious fare that at once tempts diners and puts them at ease. Following that formula, chef Jack Chaplin has attracted loyal patrons to Chaplin’s, his year-old Dallas restaurant. He suggests a summertime aperitif guaranteed to awaken taste-buds and appetites—a batch of

Marine Life

With the advent of a second Epicure on the Park this spring, Dallasites have gotten a taste of the elegant fare that has made this Fort Worth restaurant and catering company so popular. Executive chef Michael Thomson’s repertoire of take-out food adapts easily to a stunning supper that can be

Mango Lassis

64 ounces plain lowfat yogurt 2 cans (28 ounces each) mango pulp 12 cups crushed iceWhip half of ingredients at a time in blender until frothy. Pour into glasses. Serves 10 To 12.From Savoring Summer, featured in Domain, May 1990

Stilton Cheesecake With Walnut Crust

9 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped walnut pieces 1/2 cup graham cracker crumbs 4 tablespoons plus 1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon cinnamon 32 ounces cream cheese, softened 2 tablespoons flour 3 whole eggs, at room temperature 2 egg yolks, at room temperature 1 teaspoon vanilla

Texas Bellinis

Recipe from executive chef Michael Thomson, of Epicure in the Park, Dallas.

Tortellini With Tomato Vinaigrette

1 cup sun-dried tomatoes 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard 1/2 cup red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon sugar 1/4 cup chopped garlic 1/2 tablespoon salt 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup olive oil 1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil, plus 1 1/4 cup cut in julienne 18 ounces fresh tricolored

Roasted-Eggplant Salad

1 to 1 1/2 cups olive oil 2 cups each of diced red bell pepper, diced green bell pepper, and diced white onion 6 cups diced eggplant 1 cup canned diced tomato in juice 2 tablespoons capers 1/4 cup each of red wine vinegar and sugar 1/4 cup minced cilantro

Citrus Stars With Raspberry Purée

2 cups sifted flour plus 4 tablespoons flour 1 cup confectioners’ sugar, plus extra for dusting Zest of 3 lemons, 3 limes, and 2 oranges 1/2 pound butter, chilled 4 large eggs 3 cups granulated sugar 4 tablespoons each of lemon, lime, and orange juice 2 teaspoons baking powder 2

Four-Bean-and-Potato Salad

1 cup garbanzo beans1 cup black-eyed peas1 cup chana dal (split yellow peas may be substituted)1 cup mung beans5 medium red new potatoes8 scallions (with some green), finely sliced4 serrano chiles, seeded and minced 2 tablesppons chaat masala seasoning mix6 tablespoons chopped cilantroSalt, to tasteJuice of 2 large lemons or

Sautéed Spinach and Vegetables

4 tablespoons peanut oil 4 to 6 garlic cloves, minced 3 serrano chiles, minced 1 teaspoon cumin seed 2 small Japanese eggplants or 1 small purple eggplant; 2 medium red new potatoes; and 2 carrots – all cut into 1/2 -inch cubes 1 1/2 cups cauliflower florets, broken into 1/2

Cucumber-Peanut Relish

4 large cucumbers 6 tablespoons chopped cilantro 3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves 3 teaspoons sugar Juice of 2 lemons or limes 1 1/2 tablespoons peanut oil 1 teaspoon mustard seeds 3 or 4 serrano chiles (optional), seeded and slivered 1/2 cup raw peanuts, oven-roasted and coarsely chopped Salt,

Coconut Sweet

3 cups grated fresh coconut (from about 5-inch-diameter coconut) or unsweetened packaged coconut1 1/2 cups sugar1 cup milk1/4 cup peanut oil25 green cardamoms, peeled and seeds crushed, or 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cardamomMini-sized paper baking cupsIf using fresh coconut, break shell with hammer. Pry meat from shell with knife tip.

Chaplin’s Bloody Marys

2 quarts tomato juice (Sacramento) 4 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce (Lea and Perrins) 6 tablespoons chopped horseradish, or to taste 2 tablespoons each of chopped fresh garlic, lemon juice, lime juice, and dried dill 2 teaspoons ground black pepper 1 teaspoon each of ground white pepper, celery salt, and garlic salt

Sorrel-and-Watercress Vichyssoise

1 medium yellow onion, diced1 tablespoon each of butter and flour1 can (32 ounces) low-salt chicken stock1 small bunch leeks (green and white parts), washed, trimmed, and sliced2 medium baking potatoes, peeled and diced3/4 tablespoon dried thymeSalt and black pepper, to taste1 medium bunch fresh sorrel1 large bunch fresh watercress1/2

Raspberry Half-Dips

Houston pastry chef and bakery owner Marilyn Descours suggests making her easy sandwich cookies for parent-child assembly-line fun: Dab your favorite seedless raspberry jam between wafers, and dip the sandwiches halfway in 6 to 8 ounces of melted semisweet chocolate. Chill on waxed paper until the chocolate sets.Marilyn Descours’ Raspberry

Reporter

Money Changes Everything

A $10 million sweepstakes winner wants to run Denton.

By Joe Nick Patoski

Reporter

Highway Robbery?

A warning to those who barrel through the wide-open spaces at full throttle: Untold danger lurks in that tiny town you missed on the last blink.

By Kevin Swisher

Reporter

Padre Hearty

Padre’s spring breakers just want to have fun.

By Joe Nick Patoski

Miscellany

Roar of the Crowd

Talking up Texas’ present and past.