May 1990
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Features
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Driving Me Crazy
Now that my son is behind the wheel, I can’t decide whether it’s better to ride shotgun or steer clear of him completely.
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Faces of the Border
To those who live on Mexico’s side of the Rio Grande, posing for portraits is not an occasion for smiles.
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Jeff Reynolds, Zillionaire
The mysterious Texan who tried to take over Austrailia’s mighty Bond Corporation last January look good on paper-but paper was about all he had.
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Wouldn’t You Like To Be a Pepper Too?
A Dublin bottler is the only one in Texas who’s still sweet on traditional Dr. Pepper.
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The Way Out
A modest Catholic boys’ school in El Paso could teach public schools a lesson or two about how to provide a solid education on a limited budget and send 98 percent of their students off to college.
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Columns
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Vive Le Tex-Mex!
Lone Star cuisine is all the rage in Paris—France, that is.
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A Bridge Too Far?
Laredo initially hated Monterrey’s plan for a new border crossing but had second thoughts when it realized that there was money to be made.
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Behind the Lines
Literary terrorists.
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Shock Treatment
Three new books deliver sordid stories of drugged-up cops, kinky murderers, and a real-life drug kingpin.
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Domain Supplement
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Sorrel-and-Watercress Vichyssoise
1 medium yellow onion, diced 1 tablespoon each of butter and flour 1 can (32 ounces) low-salt chicken stock 1 small bunch leeks (green and white parts), washed, trimmed, and sliced 2 medium baking potatoes, peeled and diced 3/4 tablespoon dried thyme Salt and black pepper, to taste 1 medium bunch fresh sorrel 1 large …
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Chaplin’s Bloody Marys
2 quarts tomato juice (Sacramento) 4 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce (Lea and Perrins) 6 tablespoons chopped horseradish, or to taste 2 tablespoons each of chopped fresh garlic, lemon juice, lime juice, and dried dill 2 teaspoons ground black pepper 1 teaspoon each of ground white pepper, celery salt, and garlic salt 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper Salt, …
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Coconut Sweet
3 cups grated fresh coconut (from about 5-inch-diameter coconut) or unsweetened packaged coconut 1 1/2 cups sugar 1 cup milk 1/4 cup peanut oil 25 green cardamoms, peeled and seeds crushed, or 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cardamom Mini-sized paper baking cups If using fresh coconut, break shell with hammer. Pry meat from shell with knife …
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Cucumber-Peanut Relish
4 large cucumbers 6 tablespoons chopped cilantro 3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves 3 teaspoons sugar Juice of 2 lemons or limes 1 1/2 tablespoons peanut oil 1 teaspoon mustard seeds 3 or 4 serrano chiles (optional), seeded and slivered 1/2 cup raw peanuts, oven-roasted and coarsely chopped Salt, to taste Peel cucumbers; scrape out …
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Sautéed Spinach and Vegetables
4 tablespoons peanut oil 4 to 6 garlic cloves, minced 3 serrano chiles, minced 1 teaspoon cumin seed 2 small Japanese eggplants or 1 small purple eggplant; 2 medium red new potatoes; and 2 carrots – all cut into 1/2 -inch cubes 1 1/2 cups cauliflower florets, broken into 1/2 -inch piences 2 teaspoons ground …
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Four-Bean-and-Potato Salad
1 cup garbanzo beans 1 cup black-eyed peas 1 cup chana dal (split yellow peas may be substituted) 1 cup mung beans 5 medium red new potatoes 8 scallions (with some green), finely sliced 4 serrano chiles, seeded and minced 2 tablesppons chaat masala seasoning mix 6 tablespoons chopped cilantro Salt, to taste Juice of …
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Citrus Stars With Raspberry Purée
2 cups sifted flour plus 4 tablespoons flour 1 cup confectioners’ sugar, plus extra for dusting Zest of 3 lemons, 3 limes, and 2 oranges 1/2 pound butter, chilled 4 large eggs 3 cups granulated sugar 4 tablespoons each of lemon, lime, and orange juice 2 teaspoons baking powder 2 cups fresh raspberries 1/4 cup …
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Roasted-Eggplant Salad
1 to 1 1/2 cups olive oil 2 cups each of diced red bell pepper, diced green bell pepper, and diced white onion 6 cups diced eggplant 1 cup canned diced tomato in juice 2 tablespoons capers 1/4 cup each of red wine vinegar and sugar 1/4 cup minced cilantro 1 tablespoon each of minced …
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Tortellini With Tomato Vinaigrette
1 cup sun-dried tomatoes 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard 1/2 cup red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon sugar 1/4 cup chopped garlic 1/2 tablespoon salt 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup olive oil 1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil, plus 1 1/4 cup cut in julienne 18 ounces fresh tricolored cheese-filled tortellini 1 cup fresh …
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Texas Bellinis
Makes 8 drinks 2 cups fresh chopped Parker County peaches 1 cup peach nectar 1 cup peach schnapps 2 cups crushed ice Champagne Fresh fruit To make base, combine peaches, nectar, and schnapps in blender, and mix until well blended but still pulpy. To serve, place 2 cups base and 1 cup ice in blender; …
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Stilton Cheesecake With Walnut Crust
9 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped walnut pieces 1/2 cup graham cracker crumbs 4 tablespoons plus 1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon cinnamon 32 ounces cream cheese, softened 2 tablespoons flour 3 whole eggs, at room temperature 2 egg yolks, at room temperature 1 teaspoon vanilla 8 ounces grated Stilton cheese 1/2 cup …
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Raspberry Half-Dips
Houston pastry chef and bakery owner Marilyn Descours suggests making her easy sandwich cookies for parent-child assembly-line fun: Dab your favorite seedless raspberry jam between wafers, and dip the sandwiches halfway in 6 to 8 ounces of melted semisweet chocolate. Chill on waxed paper until the chocolate sets. Marilyn Descours’ Raspberry Half-Dips 3/4 cup butter …
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Mango Lassis
64 ounces plain lowfat yogurt 2 cans (28 ounces each) mango pulp 12 cups crushed ice Whip half of ingredients at a time in blender until frothy. Pour into glasses. Serves 10 To 12. From Savoring Summer, featured in Domain, May 1990
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Marine Life
With the advent of a second Epicure on the Park this spring, Dallasites have gotten a taste of the elegant fare that has made this Fort Worth restaurant and catering company so popular. Executive chef Michael Thomson’s repertoire of take-out food adapts easily to a stunning supper that can be prepared a few days in …
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Hot Off The Grill
Favorite neighborhood bistros have long been noted for delicious unpretentious fare that at once tempts diners and puts them at ease. Following that formula, chef Jack Chaplin has attracted loyal patrons to Chaplin’s, his year-old Dallas restaurant. He suggests a summertime aperitif guaranteed to awaken taste-buds and appetites—a batch of piquant Bloody Marys, spiked with …
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Indian Summer
Indian-born cooking instructor Suneeta Vaswani has won Houstonians’ hearts with her authentic native cuisine. Her buffet for twelve can be made ahead and served at room temperature. Shrimp pulao and a spicy spinach sauté contrast nicely with a crunchy four-bean-and-potato salad and a cool cucumber-peanut relish. Mango lassis are sure to quench summer thirsts. Coconut …
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Crab Cakes With Ancho Chile Sauce
Crab Cakes 2 cups diced Roma tomatoes 1/4 cup each of minced shallots and garlic 1 cup diced onion 2 tablespoons thinly sliced serrano chiles 2 tablespoons each of sugar and lime juice 1/4 pound fresh scallops, muscle removed Salt and white pepper, to taste 1 1/4 cups chopped cilantro 2 egg whites 1 cup …
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Grilled Pompano, Sea Scallops and Crayfish
Grilled Pompano in Beurre Rouge With Sea Scallops and Crayfish 3 shallots, chopped fine 1/2 pound softened butter plus 3 tablespoons butter 1/2 cup each of red and white wine Juice of 1 lemon 1/2 cup heavy cream Salt and white pepper, to taste 1/2 to 3/4 pound precooked crayfish tail meat 1 to 1 …
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Shrimp Pulao
3 cups long-grain rice (preferably basmati) 1 large onion 1-inch piece gingerroot, peeled 6 garlic cloves 5 tablespoons peanut oil 1 large tomato, finely chopped 1 1/2 teaspoons poppy seeds Scant 1/2 teaspoon turmeric 3/4 teaspoon each of cumin powder, ground coriander, and Indian red chile powder (or cayenne pepper) Salt, to taste 1/3 cup …
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Grilled New Potatoes and Asparagus
Recipe from chef Jack Chaplin, Chaplin’s, Dallas. 16 small red new potatoes 2 pounds fresh asparagus spears 1/4 cup olive oil 12 tablespoons butter, softened 1 teaspoon each of chopped fresh rosemary, parsley, and garlic In 4-quart pot of boiling water, blanch potatoes for about 15 minutes, until they can be pierced with a knife …
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Savoring Summer
If you can’t stand the heat, take a sip of a cool mango lassi and select refreshing recipes-such as chilled sorrel-and-watercress vichyssoise or gingery shrimp pulao-from these three menus.
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Reporter
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Padre Hearty
Padre’s spring breakers just want to have fun.
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Highway Robbery?
A warning to those who barrel through the wide-open spaces at full throttle: Untold danger lurks in that tiny town you missed on the last blink.
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Money Changes Everything
A $10 million sweepstakes winner wants to run Denton.
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Miscellany
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State Secrets
Just when one education lawsuit is over, along comes another; how Ross Perot became an issue in the lieutenant governor’s race; why Coke-Stevenson, that is-is hard to swallow.
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Roar of the Crowd
Talking up Texas’ present and past.
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